A hard, granular cheese with a deep, fruity flavour and a mellow aftertaste.
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The lovely Mizen Peninsula is located at
the southern-most tip of Ireland and is home to Bill Hogan and Sean Ferry.
Together they make three different cheeses: Desmond, Mizen and Gabriel.
All are made during the summer months using the milk supplied by the small
herds which graze the rolling hills between Mount Gabriel and the sea.
The fields of this area contain a broad mixture of wild and cultivated
grasses, heathers and a multitude of other plants carpeted over rich peaty
soil set amongst protruding boulders and fresh running streams.
Bill Hogan was taught his cheese making
by the late Josef Dubach in Costa Rica. Josef was a Swiss cheese-maker
and was sent by the Swiss Development Corporation to poorer countries
to teach them the art of cheese-making. The aim was to help raise standards
of living in the same way that cheese had done in the Swiss valleys. Bill
translated Josef's book, 'Traditional Cheese-making' and as payment he
spent the summer at Josef's farm in Switzerland. Afterwards Bill started
cheese-making in Ireland using the skills he had acquired.
Bill and Sean buy their milk from seven
neighbouring farms. They do not have their own cows since they only make
cheese for four months of the year. They believe this is the only time
the that milk is good enough for cheese-making. The grass is at its best
and the stage of lactation in the cows cycle is also favourable.
As in Switzerland the cheese is made in
a copper bath. Bill believes that the copper reacts with the acidified
curds resulting in a livelier and deeper flavour in the final product.
He says that the more popular stainless steel baths have a deadening effect
on the flavour. Another unusual feature of the dairy is that all the walls
are painted in bright turquoise from top to bottom, not because it is
Bill's favourite colour but because he is sure it repels the flies.
Gabriel has a granular texture similar
to Parmesan. The flavour is deep and fruity. After pressing, the cheeses
are smeared with a bacterial culture to give a thin speckled golden crust.
They are then matured for many months or years. Our Gabriel is between
one and two years of age. It can be grated and used as one would use a
Parmesan. Gabriel also makes an excellent fondue because of its 'thermophilic'
qualities - that is, when it melts it forms strings. A true fondue is
made using 'thermophilic' cheese - Gabriel, Desmond, Gruyère, Emmental
and Appenzeller are all examples.
Each cheese is made from unpasteurised
milk and measures approximately 35cm in diameter, 10cm in height, weighs
6kg and has a fat content of 48%. Cheeses can also be made in huge rounds
weighing some 25 to 45kg.