Issue No. 12 -
Wishing you a Merry Christmas and
a Happy New Year
Colston Bassett Stilton, Cantal Laguoile, Appleby's
Cheshire, a Camembert au Calvados and a Chabichou du Poitou. Minimum
weight of cheese 1kg. Including
delivery to UK addresses.
Available as part of the cheese
is probably one of the world's oldest cheeses, discovered
and adopted by the Romans. Pronounced by the French as 'Layole',
it has been produced in the Auvergne for the last 2,000 years.
Laguiole was first made at a monastery in the mountains of
Aubrac, an area of particularly rich meadows. The monks taught
the methods to local buronniers who made the cheese in their
burons (mountain huts). The cheese is made in the same way
to this day, and although the huts are primitive, they are
perfectly suited to the production of cheese. Laguiole, a
small village on the plateau of Aubrac, became the centre
of production in the early 1900s.
A heavy, moist
cheese, the curds undergo two pressings during production. After the
first pressing a thick slice of curd is produced, called the tome. This
is matured for 8 hours allowing lactic acid build up. The matured tome
is then ground into nut sized pieces. Amongst French cheeses, Cantal
is the only one that undergoes this grinding process.
gained A.O.C. status in 1961, which was modified in 1986. Once restricted
to the region of Aubrac, it can now be made in the three départments,
Aveyron, Cantal and Lozère. It is made all year round. Each drum-shaped
truckle is 36-42cm in diameter, 35-40cm high and weighs approximately
40kg. It has a fat content of 45%.
cooking cheese, Cantal Laguiole is particularly suited to potato dishes
such as gratins. With a flavour similar to a strong cheddar, it has
a more open texture and melts well. It can also be enjoyed on the cheeseboard,
possibly with a glass of one of the local red wines such as Côtes d'Auvergne.
for Christmas and
Christmas and New Year
are the busiest times of year for us and we spend many months preparing
for this period. We are always keen to receive your orders early so
that we can reserve the cheese for you. We sell out of many cheeses
in the run up to Christmas since the small farms we deal with cannot
produce enough to keep up with the demand. Ordering early will ensure
you receive your favourite cheeses.
Once again we have put
together cheeseboards for Christmas and New Year for those who do not
wish to create their own. In our brochure you will find a further twelve
cheeseboards to suit all tastes and pockets. We also have a range of
hampers, wine and cheese accessories which make perfect gifts.
TRADING OF CHEESE DURING THE 17th CENTURY
to the 17th Century the transport of milk from farms was almost impossible
since there were no refrigerated lorries or storage units. Converting
the milk into cheeses and butter allowed farmers to reach their local
markets. During the 17th Century farmers started to form co-operative
movements, bulking the milk from a group of farms together to make larger
cheeses ('greate' cheeses) which could be more easily and economically
transported further afield.
It was at this time that small buyers known as 'jobbers' started to
buy up these 'greate' cheeses at local markets which would then be sent
on the larger markets and fairs. At these larger markets, buyers known
as 'Factors' would then buy the cheeses which were passed on to cheesemongers.
At this time a group known as the London Cheesemongers were the main
buyers. They owned 16 ships between London, Chester and Liverpool, with
warehouses at each port. By 1764 so much cheese was being sold through
this route that the general public were unable to buy good cheese directly
at markets, as Factors had bought up all the marketable cheese for the
Factors still have a presence today but the London Cheesemongers no
longer exist. Cheesemongers such as ourselves now generally buy directly
from small farms, and supermarkets buy from the large creameries.
and Grain Mustard Sausages
month's recipe originates from Wales, where leftover scraps of Caerphilly
were used to make "Glamorgan Sausages". Our version uses Cantal Laguiole,
a tangy, full-flavoured cheese from France's Auvergne region, which
French cooks use in much the same way as we would use a farmhouse cheddar
(alternatively you can use Llanboidy from Carmarthenshire, Wales). With
the addition of wholegrain mustard these make an unusual and tasty snack
which is ideal for a light supper or Sunday brunch.
250g/9oz fresh white breadcrumbs
150g/5oz fried white breadcrumbs (for coating)
2 finely chopped spring onions
1 teaspoon wholegrain mustard
1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves
1 teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary
pinch of nutmeg
2 eggs, separated
flour for dusting
salt and pepper
the cheese, fresh breadcrumbs, spring onions, mustard and herbs. Season
to taste with salt, pepper and nutmeg, then add the egg yolk and knead
gently to form a soft paste. Chill for half an hour to firm the mixture
up a little, then divide into 12 pieces and shape into sausages.
egg whites until just frothy. Dust the sausages in the flour, dip them
in egg white and then roll them in the dry bread crumbs. Either deep
fry in oil for 3 to 4 minutes or, if preferred, pan-fry in oil and a
little butter until golden brown and thoroughly cooked. Drain on kitchen
paper and serve with a green salad and some homemade tomato sauce.
wines to accompany the Christmas and New Year cheese selections
de Ventoux ~ "Les Traverses".
Paul Jaboulet Ainé 1998
Lovely spicy, peppery aromas with sweet berry and vanilla notes. Balanced
depth Rich fruits show on the nose with delicious concentration which
£6.90 per bottle.
~ Tulbagh 1999
The wine is very clean, soft and plummy making this an ideal red for
those requiring a wine for easy drinking. £7.05 per bottle.
~ Domaine des Amouriers 1998
Deep ruby colour, a big forceful black cherry and Provencal herb scented
nose. Ripe medium to full bodied spicy flavours and an attractive smooth
£10.30 per bottle.
Year cheese selection
Mature, Berkswell, Colston Bassett Shopshire Blue, Garroxta and
Epoisses. (Minimum weight of cheese 1kg). Including delivery
to UK addresses
as part of the cheese
At first glance one
would think that being a traditional cheesemonger would have very
little connection with the internet. There are two distinct roles
of the cheesemonger - the first is the buying of the cheeses from
the small farm makers, maturing the cheeses at the right temperature
and carefully controlled humidity, the washing, brushing and turning
of the cheeses during their development and then finally the tasting
and selection of cheeses for sale. This fundamental part of the business
has changed little over the last hundred years.
role of the cheesemonger however, has changed dramatically, that is
the selling of the cheese. Traditionally, before the advent of supermarkets,
cheesemongers would have attracted their trade locally and there would
have been a cheese seller in every town and market (as there still is
in France). Nowadays, with the abundance of supermarkets the local cheesemonger
along with the baker, butcher and fishmonger are a dying breed.
for The Teddington Cheese, the maturing of cheese is a very skilled
art, and the supermarkets with their reliance on sell by, use by, display
until and use before dates (although essential when employing less qualified
staff), means that they will never be able to produce the finest cheese.
Moreover, their reliance on 'stack it high, sell it cheap' practices
limits their suppliers to large creameries, whereas small traditional
farms are only able to supply a small number of traditional cheesemongers.
many people have grown to accept the not so special supermarket fare
and others only visit the local cheesemonger on special occasions. Although
this results in a roaring trade at certain times of the year it isn't
enough to sustain a business during the remaining year. In order to
compete we have to attract customers from further afield. This in itself
also has problems because of traffic, parking and high fuel prices.
In order to
help sustain a viable business The Teddington Cheese had to embrace
mail-order. Using next-day delivery services, temperature controlled
packaging, brochures and advertising we have been able to build up a
loyal following. However, for a small business the printing of brochures
and advertising are extremely expensive, and although conventional mail-order
helps, it does not guarantee a secure future.
media hype, security scares and .com millionaire stories it is difficult
to discuss the internet in some circles without raising a 'yawn'. In
reality, for the small cheesemonger and other specialists it is providing,
in the first instance, a life-line. Secondly, it is providing us with
the opportunity to provide products and levels of service which allow
us not only to compete, but to thrive. Without it, it would be difficult
Christmas Special Offer
Girolle and a Tete de Moine
(normal price £54.00)
A Girolle is a machine built specially for the Tete de
Moine cheese. It pares away the surface of the cheese to produce attractive
rosettes of cheese. The spicy, aromatic flavours of the cheese are enjoyed
at their most profuse when cut and served in this manner. A superb buy
for the Christmas table.
Get a further £5.00 off when you visit our stand at the
BBC Good Food Show (which we are sharing with the Swiss Cheese Dairy)
at the Birmingham NEC from Wednesday 29th November to Sunday 3rd December.
Above: Girolle with Tete de Moine cheese.
here to buy one
DID YOU KNOW?
During the Peasant's Revolt of 1381, anyone
who couldn't say 'bread and cheese' without a foreign accent was sentenced
to have their head chopped off. These were very troubled and unsophisticated
times and although rough and ready, it was this was the best method
they had to detect spies.
articles © www.teddingtoncheese.co.uk